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Education Material
SHAPES
Gemstones are cut in a variety of different shapes, which
are usually determined by the shapes of their rough crystals.
Many are also "calibrated" or cut to a consistent
dimension so they are able to fit in a number of different
jewelry mountings. Here the some of the more popular gemstones
shapes.
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Round
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Oval
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Marquise
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Pear
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Princess
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Heart
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Emerald
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Trillion
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Color Rating Chart
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RED
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PINK
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ORANGE
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YELLOW GOLD
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Ruby
Garnet
Tourmaline
Spinel
Alexandrite
(changes color)
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Ruby
Sapphire
Spinel
Garnet
Topaz
Tourmaline
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Sapphire
Garnet
Mandarin Garnet
Citrine
Topaz
Fire Opal
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Sapphire
Citrine
Topaz
Zircon
Amber
Tourmaline
Garnet
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GREEN
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BLUE
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VIOLET
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MULTI-COLOR
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Emerald
Tourmaline
Tsavorite Garnet
Demantoid Garnet
Peridot
Jade Sapphire
Alexandrite
(changes color)
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Sapphire
Aquamarine
Topaz
Tourmaline
Tanzanite
Spinel
Zircon
Lapis Lazuli
Iolite
Turquoise
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Amethyst
Garnet
Sapphire
Spinel
Tanzanite
Jadeite
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Ametrine
Opal
Multicoloured
Tourmaline
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The Mohs Scale of Hardness
The Moh's scale was devised in 1812 by Austrian mineralogist,
Friedrich Moh, to measure a mineral's hardness and it's
resistance to scratching. The scale goes from talc as
number 1, being the softest, to diamonds as number 10,
being the hardest substance known.
BIRTHSTONES
| January |
Garnet |
| February |
Amethyst |
| March |
Aquamarine |
| April |
Diamond or White Topaz |
| May |
Emerald |
| June |
Pearl or Alexandrite or Moonstone
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| July |
Ruby |
| August |
Peridot |
| September |
Sapphire |
| October |
Opal or Pink Tourmaline |
| November |
Citrine |
| December |
Blue Topaz |
SIGN STONE
| Aries (March 22 - April 20) |
Diamond |
| Taurus (April 21 - May 21) |
Emerald |
| Gemini (May 22 - June 21) |
Agate |
| Cancer (June 22 - July 22) |
Pearl or Moonstone |
| Leo (July 23 - August 22) |
Ruby |
| Virgo (August - September 22) |
Sapphire |
| Libra (September 23 - October 23)
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Opal |
| Scorpio (October 24 - November
21) |
Sardonyx |
| Sagittarius (November 22 - December
21) |
Topaz |
| Capricorn (December 22 - January
21) |
Onyx |
| Aquarius (January 21 - February
21) |
Turquoise |
| Pisces (February 22 - March 21) |
Moonstone |
ANNIVERSARY STONES
| 1st: Gold |
13th: Citrine |
| 2nd: Garnet |
14th: Opal |
| 3rd: Pearl |
15th: Ruby |
| 4th: Blue Topaz |
20th: Emerald |
| 5th: Sapphire |
25th: Silver |
| 6th: Amethyst |
30th: Pearl |
| 7th: Onyx |
35th: Emerald |
| 8th: Tourmaline |
40th: Ruby |
| 9th: Lapis |
45th: Sapphire |
| 10th: Diamond |
50th: Gold |
| 11th: Turquoise |
60th: Diamond |
| 12th: Jade |
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Gems information by name: -
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Hardness : 7.0.
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Occurrence : Worldwide.
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Appearance
Violet, lilac or mauve quartz is called amethyst.
Amethyst is sometimes heat treated to form citrine.
Amethyst crystals can form together with citrine
crystals to form bi-colored quartz called ametrine.
Amethyst is the birthstone of the month of February.
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Enhancements
Occasionally heated to lighten color and/or to remove
"smoky" components.
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Hardness : 7.0.
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Occurrence : Bolivia,
Brazil. Several suppliers have indicated that the
ametrine mines have run out. Quality material is
now very difficult to obtain.
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Appearance
Quartz crystals that are part amethyst, and part
citrine are called ametrine. Ametrine is found naturally,
and is not the result of heat treatment or any other
enhancement. Bi-colored quartz is similar, but is
a combination of citrine and smoky quartz, or amethyst
and colorless quartz.
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Enhancements
Ametrine is not enhanced.
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Hardness : 5.0.
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Occurrence : Brazil,
Russia, Myanmar (Burma), Sri Lanka (Ceylon), Canada,
East Africa, Sweden, Spain and Mexico.
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Appearance
Can be transparent to opaque, with colors ranging
from yellow, green, blue, violet and colorless.
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Enhancements
Apatite is not known to be enhanced.
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Hardness : 7.0.
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Appearance
Quartz cystals of different colors often form together
to form interesting bi-colored stones. These can
be part natural citrine and smoky quartz, or amethyst
and colorless quartz, these gemstones are very attractive.
Another form of bi-colored quartz is ametrine (amethyst
and citrine).
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Enhancements
Bi-color quartz is not known to be enhanced.
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Hardness : 8.0.
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Occurrence : Myanmar
(Burma), Sri Lanka (Ceylon), Africa.
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Appearance
Black spinel is the opaque jet-black variety of
spinel. Black spinel is the premier black gemstone.
With a hardness of 8, it's extremely durable. Black
spinel lacks the metallic lustre of hematite or
black diamond, other popular black gemstones. Black
spinel is a true gemstone, unlike jet, which is
form of coal (coal). Black spinel would make an
attractive center stone when surrounded by diamonds
or white sapphires. Black spinel is often confused
with black tourmaline, another great material for
use in making jewelry with black gemstones.
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Enhancements
Black spinel is not enhanced.
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Hardness : 9.0.
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Occurrence : Myanmar
(Burma), Thailand, India, Sri Lanka (Ceylon), Tanzania,
Afghanistan, Australia, Brazil, Cambodia, Malagasy
Republic, Malawi, Pakistan, Zimbabwe (Rhodesia),
United States (Montana, North Carolina).
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Appearance
Although found in a variety of colors, blue sapphire
is the color most people think of when sapphire
is mentioned. Very light to very dark (almost inky)
shades of blue are found. The more vivid colors
(without being too dark) are the most valuable.
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Enhancements
Blue sapphire is always heat treated to produce,
intensify or lighten color and/or improve color
uniformity and appearance.
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Hardness : 8.0.
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Occurrence : Brazil,
U.S., Sri Lanka (Ceylon), Myanmar (Burma), former
USSR, Australia, Pakistan, Mexico, Tasmania, Japan,
Africa. Topaz and citrine are the birthstones
of the month of November. Some blue topaz are
indistinguishable from aquamarine with the naked
eye. Most blue topaz is irradiated and heat treated
silver topaz, although it is sometimes found naturally.
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Appearance
The names "Sky blue topaz", "Swiss
blue topaz", "London blue topaz"
are trade names which refer to the darkness of the
gemstone, with "sky blue topaz" being
the lightest and "London blue topaz" being
the darkest.
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Enhancements
Blue topaz is usually irradiated and often heated
to produce blue color.
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Hardness : 6.5 - 7.0.
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Occurrence : Worldwide.
A member of the chalcedony family (micro-crystalline
quartz).
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Appearance
Cornelian, also spelled Carnelian ranges in color
from light brownish-red to deep transparent red.
The color is due to Iron.
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Enhancements
Carnelian is usually heat treated to produce color,
and occasionally dyed to produce color.
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Hardness : 6.5 - 7.0.
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Occurrence : Australia,
Brazil, Western U.S., Utal mountains (Russia), and
Austria.
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Appearance
The most valued of the chalcedony, this translucent
bluish green stone derives it's color from the presence
of Nickel.
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Enhancements
Chrysoprase is not enhanced.
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Hardness : 7.0.
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Occurrence : Worldwide
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Appearance
Yellow or golden yellow quartz is called citrine.
Citrine crystals can form together with amethyst
or smoky quartz to form ametrine and bi-colored
quartz. Citrine and topaz are the birthstones of
the month of November.
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Enhancements
Citrine is usually produced by heating various types
of quartz.
Emerald
(Beryl)
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Hardness : 7.5 -
8.0.
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Occurrence : Colombia,
Brazil, Zimbabwe (Rhodesia), South Africa, Ural
mountains (Russia), Zambia, India, Tanzania, Pakistan,
Australia, U.S. (Connecticut, Maine, North Carolina),
Austria and Norway.
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Appearance
Emerald refers to the green variety of beryl.
There are however, gem quality green beryls which
are not emeralds. All emeralds contain inclusions,
which are evidence as to the genuineness of the
stone. The name is derived from the Greek word
Smaragdos, meaning "green stone". Emerald
is the birthstone of the month of May.
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Enhancements
Emerald is usually treated with colorless oil,
wax, or natural and synthetic resins into voids
to improve appearance. Surface cavities of emerald
is commonly filled with a hardened colorless substance.
Emerald is also occasionally dyed with dye or
colored oil.
Garnet
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Hardness : 7.0 -
7.5.
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Occurrence : U.S.
(Arizona), South Africa, Argentina, Australia,
Brazil, Myanmar (Burma), Scotland, Switzerland,
Tanzania
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Appearance
Garnet is the name which can be applied to six
similar mineral species, namely almandine, pyrope,
spessartine, grossular, andradite and uvarovite.
To further complicate matters, many garnets are
actually a combination of these minerals. Rhodolite
garnet for instance, is a combination of almandine
and pyrope, and is sometimes referred to as pyrope-almandine
garnet. There are also many trade names and other
commonly used names which only adds to the confusion,
such as Rhodolite, Tsavorite, Hessonite, Malaya,
Mozambique, Mandarin, Ant-hill, Leuco, Hydrogrossular,
Demantoid, Melanite, Topazolite, Thai. Other names
such as "cape ruby" are simply misleading
and deceptive. Some garnets also exhibit color
change and stars.
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Enhancements
Garnet in general is not enhanced.
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Hardness : 7.0.
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Occurrence : Worldwide,
found in gold deposits.
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Appearance
Metallic gold, included in white milky quartz.
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Enhancements
Gold included quartz is not enhanced.
Grossular
Garnet
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Hardness : 7.0
- 7.5.
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Occurrence : Sri
Lanka, Canada, Pakistan, South Africa, Tanzania,
Russia and the U.S.. This is a fairly rare garnet.
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Appearance
Cinnamon orange (hessonite), pink and emerald
green (tsavorite garnet).
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Enhancements
Grossular garnet is not enhanced.
Mexican
Fire Opal
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Hardness : 5.5
- 6.5.
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Occurrence : Australia,
former Czechoslovakia, U.S., Brazil, Mexico
and southern Africa. Opal and tourmaline are
the birthstones of the month of October.
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Appearance
Orangish yellow to dark red. The reddish fire
opal is sometimes called "cherry opal".
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Enhancements
Mexican fire opal is not enhanced.
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Hardness : 6.5 -
7.0.
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Occurrence : St.
John's Island, Zebirget Island, Red Sea (Egypt),
Norway, Eifel, Germany, San Carlos (Arizona),
Hawaii, Myanmar (Burma), and Italy.
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Appearance
Olive green to yellowish green. The darker green
is known as peridot, the yellower type chrysolite.
Peridot and sardonyx are the birthstones of the
month of August.
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Enhancements
Peridot is rarely treated with colorless
oil, wax, natural and synthetic unhardened resins
into voids to improve appearance. Surface fractures
are rarely filled with a colorless hardened
substance.
Peruvian
Blue Opal
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Hardness : 5.5
- 6.5.
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Occurrence : Peru
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Appearance
Translucent, and similar in color to turquoise
in color.
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Enhancements
Peruvian blue opal is not enhanced.
Pink
Sapphire
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Hardness : 9.0.
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Occurrence : Myanmar
(Burma), Thailand, India, Sri Lanka (Ceylon),
Tanzania, Afghanistan, Australia, Brazil, Cambodia,
Malagasy Republic, Malawi, Pakistan, Zimbabwe
(Rhodesia), United States (Montana, North Carolina).
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Appearance
Lighter in color than ruby, these gemstones
are referred to as pink sapphire. The term ruby
refers to the darker red corundum colored by
Chromium impurities.
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Enhancements
Pink sapphire is always heat treated to produce,
intensify or lighten color and/or improve color
uniformity and appearance.
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Hardness : 7.0.
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Occurrence : Madagascar,
North America, Brazil, Myanmar (Burma), Africa,
Siberia, Australia, Sri Lanka (Ceylon). Tourmaline
and opal are the birthstones of the month of
October. Tourmaline is the national gemstone
of the United States.
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Appearance
Pink to reddish in color.
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Enhancements
Pink, red and purple tourmaline is occasionally
heat treated to improve color.
Quartz
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Hardness : 7.0
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Occurrence :
Worldwide. One of the most common minerals.
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Appearance
Quartz can be found in a variety of colors,
violet (amethyst), golden yellow (citrine),
pink or peachish (rose quartz), brown (smoky
quartz), green (prasiolite) and colorless
(rock crystal). Quartz is sometimes found
with inclusions of other minerals such as
rutile (sagenite, or rutilated quartz) or
tourmaline (tourmalinated quartz), making
them look quite remarkable. Chalcedony, a
micro-crystalline member of the quartz family
consists of a number of stones, namely agate,
dendritic agate, fire agate, bloodstone (heliotrope),
plasma, chrysoprase, prase, fossilized wood,
jasper, carnelian, moss agate, onyx, sardonyx,
and sard
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Enhancements
Clear quartz is not enhanced. Refer to specific
pages on other types.
Rhodolite
Garnet
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Hardness : 7.0
- 7.5.
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Occurrence :
U.S., Zimbabwe, and Sri Lanka (Ceylon).
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Appearance
Rhodolite garnet is a combination of almandine
and pyrope, and is sometimes referred to as
pyrope-almandine garnet. The name is derived
from the Greek words rhodon and lithos, meaning
rose-stone. Raspberry red to a deep pinkish-red.
Garnet is the birthstone of the month of January.
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Enhancements
Rhodolite garnet is not enhanced.
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Hardness : 7.0.
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Occurrence : Worldwide
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Appearance
Also known as lavender amethyst, and is much lighter
in color than amethyst.
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Enhancements
Occasionally heated to lighten color and/or to
remove "smoky" components.
Rose
Quartz
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Hardness : 7.0
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Occurrence : Madagascar,
Brazil, U.S. (Colorado), former USSR, Scotland
and Spain.
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Appearance
The soft pink variety of quartz, generally cloudy,
or milky in appearance due to minute inclusions
of foreign substances. It's somewhat more rare
than other varieties of quartz.
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Enhancements
Rose quartz is not enhanced.
Rubellite
(Tourmaline)
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Hardness : 7.0
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Occurrence : Madagascar,
North America, Brazil, Myanmar (Burma), Africa,
Siberia, Australia, Sri Lanka (Ceylon). Tourmaline
and opal are the birthstones of the month of
October. Tourmaline is the national gemstone
of the United States.
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Appearance
The reddish to purple color of tourmaline is
called rubellite. Like emerald, inclusions are
common. Ruby red colored stones are the most
valuable.
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Enhancements
Pink, red and purple tourmaline is occasionally
heat treated to improve color.
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Hardness : 9.0.
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Occurrence : Myanmar
(Burma), Thailand, India, Sri Lanka (Ceylon),
Tanzania, Afghanistan, Australia, Brazil, Cambodia,
Malagasy Republic, Malawi, Pakistan, Zimbabwe
(Rhodesia), United States (Montana, North Carolina).
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Appearance
Named for it's color (Latin Rubeus). Ruby
has been confused with red spinel and garnet.
The color can range from "pigeon-blood"
to brownish. Other colors are known as sapphire.
Inclusions are common, and are used to tell
the difference between a synthetic and natural
stone. Ruby is the birthstone of the month of
July.
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Enhancements
Ruby is usually heat treated to improve
color and appearance. Surface cavities and fractures
are commonly filled with a foreign material,
including glass. As a by-product of heat
treatment, the presence of solidified borax
or similar colorless substances which are visible
under 10x magnification are common.
Rutilated
Quartz
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Hardness : 7.0
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Occurrence :
Worldwide.
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Appearance
Sometimes called "sagenite", quartz
crystals which are included with "needle
like" rutile crystals are common and
are quite attractive. Other common attractive
inclusions found are tourmaline, gold, silver,
pyrite and goethite.
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Enhancements
Rutilated quartz is not enhanced.
Sapphire
(Corundum)
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Hardness : 9.0
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Occurrence :
Myanmar (Burma), Thailand, India, Sri Lanka
(Ceylon), Tanzania, Afghanistan, Australia,
Brazil, Cambodia, Malagasy Republic, Malawi,
Pakistan, Zimbabwe (Rhodesia), United States
(Montana, North Carolina).
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Appearance
Sapphires are found in a variety of colors.
The reddish colors are called ruby. People
generally think of sapphires as blue in color,
although they are also colorless, pink, orange,
green, golden, yellow, purple and black. Sapphire
is the birthstone of the month of September.
Red sapphires are known as ruby, and pinkish
orange sapphire as padparadscha.
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Enhancements
Sapphire is always heat treated to produce,
intensify or lighten color and/or improve
color uniformity and appearance. Heat treatment
of sapphires is performed at the sapphire
mines, and is a industry-wide accepted practice.
We have had a lot of requests for untreated
sapphires, but they don't exist. Unless you
dig it out of the ground yourself, always
assume that any sapphire is heat treated.
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Hardness : 7.0.
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Occurrence : Brazil,
Madagascar, Switzerland, U.S. (Colorado), Australia
and Spain. Smoky quartz from the Cairngorm Mountains
of Scotland is called cairngorm.
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Appearance
Smoky quartz is the dark brown variety of quartz.
In the past, these were often sold as "smoky
topaz". There is no such gemstone known
as smoky topaz and it's illegal to refer to
quartz as "topaz". Watch out for some
unscrupulous dealers who sell "smoky topaz",
it is probably quartz. Citrine was often passed
off as topaz as well. Smoky quartz crystals
can form together with citrine crystals to form
bi-colored quartz. Smoky quartz is sometimes
found rutilated, which would be called Smoky
Sagenite (Rutilated Quartz).
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Enhancements
Smoky quartz is occasionally produced by irradiation
of colorless quartz.
Tourmaline
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Hardness : 7.0
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Occurrence :
Madagascar, North America, Brazil, Myanmar
(Burma), Africa, Siberia, Australia, Sri Lanka
(Ceylon). Tourmaline and opal are the birthstones
of the month of October. Tourmaline is the
national gemstone of the United States.
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Appearance
There are more colors of tourmaline than any
other known gemstone. The lighter colored
stones are more valuable.
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Enhancements
Refer to specific pages
Turquoise
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Hardness : 7.0.
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Occurrence :
Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Eastern Australia,
Tibet, Israel, Tanzania, Southwestern U.S..
Turquoise and zircon are the birthstones of
the month of December.
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Appearance
Sky blue to bluish green. The name means "Turkish
stone". Turquoise is porous, so contact
with liquids, oils or even perspiration should
be avoided. Jewelry made with turquoise should
be removed before washing hands, etc.. The
pure blue color is rare, most stones contain
the matrix from which it was found. Although
the stones without matrix are rarer and more
valuable, many people find the black matrix
attractive, and makes the stone unique.
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Enhancements
Turquoise is commonly impregnated with plastic,
colorless oil or wax to improve color and
increase durability. Untreated turquoise will
eventually turn green.
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Hardness : 9.0.
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Occurrence :
Myanmar (Burma), Thailand, India, Sri Lanka
(Ceylon), Tanzania, Afghanistan, Australia,
Brazil, Cambodia, Malagasy Republic, Malawi,
Pakistan, Zimbabwe (Rhodesia), United States
(Montana, North Carolina).
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Appearance
Lacking orangish tones, these lemon
yellow sapphires are really quite stunning.
Can be confused with citrine.
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Enhancements
Yellow sapphire is always heat treated
to produce, intensify or lighten color and/or
improve color uniformity and appearance. Yellow
sapphire is occasionally irradiated to provide
temporary intense yellow or orange color.
Quartz
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Hardness :
7.0
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Occurrence
: Worldwide. One of the most common minerals.
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Appearance
Quartz can be found in a variety of colors,
violet (amethyst), golden yellow (citrine),
pink or peachish (rose quartz), brown (smoky
quartz), green (prasiolite) and colorless
(rock crystal). Quartz is sometimes found
with inclusions of other minerals such as
rutile (sagenite, or rutilated quartz) or
tourmaline (tourmalinated quartz), making
them look quite remarkable. Chalcedony,
a micro-crystalline member of the quartz
family consists of a number of stones, namely
agate, dendritic agate, fire agate, bloodstone
(heliotrope), plasma, chrysoprase, prase,
fossilized wood, jasper, carnelian, moss
agate, onyx, sardonyx, and sard
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Enhancements
Clear quartz is not enhanced. Refer to specific
pages on other types.
Onyx
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Hardness :
6.5 - 7.0.
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Occurrence
: Worldwide. A member of the family (micro-crystalline)
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Appearance
Onyx is the name given to hich is uniform
in color, generally black or white. Onyx
should not be confused with onyx marble,
a banded stone which is a form of limestone
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Enhancements
Black and colored onyx is always dyed.
Lemon
Quartz
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Hardness :
7.0.
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Occurrence
: Brazil
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Appearance
Yellow green in color,
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Enhancements
Lmeon is usually produced by heating various
types of Quartz
Iolite
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Hardness :
7.0 - 7.5.
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Occurrence
: Named after P. Cordier, a French geologist.
Cordierite is also known as iolite and dichroite.
Other common names are water sapphire and
Vikings' compass, named so because of it's
ability to determine the direction of the
sun on overcast days. Cordierite is found
in Germany, Brazil, Norway, Finland and
Madagascar.
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Appearance
Has strong pleochroism, meaning the gemstone
changes colors depending which angle it
is viewed from. Cordierite displays colors
ranging from deep blue, to violet and light
blue and grayish blue.
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Enhancements
Iolite is not enhanced.
Labradorite
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Hardness :
6.0.
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Occurrence
: Labrador (Canada), Finland, Norway, former
USSR
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Appearance
Can be red, orange, yellow, colorless, with
a bluish play of color, "schiller".
Spectrolite is the name for the Finnish
labradorite.
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Enhancements
Labradorite is not known to be enhanced.
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