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Education Material


SHAPES
Gemstones are cut in a variety of different shapes, which are usually determined by the shapes of their rough crystals. Many are also "calibrated" or cut to a consistent dimension so they are able to fit in a number of different jewelry mountings. Here the some of the more popular gemstones shapes.

Round
Oval
Marquise
Pear
Princess
Heart
Emerald
Trillion

Color Rating Chart

RED
PINK
ORANGE
YELLOW GOLD
Ruby
Garnet
Tourmaline
Spinel
Alexandrite
(changes color)
Ruby
Sapphire
Spinel
Garnet
Topaz
Tourmaline
Sapphire
Garnet
Mandarin Garnet
Citrine
Topaz
Fire Opal
Sapphire
Citrine
Topaz
Zircon
Amber
Tourmaline
Garnet
GREEN
BLUE
VIOLET
MULTI-COLOR
Emerald
Tourmaline
Tsavorite Garnet
Demantoid Garnet
Peridot
Jade Sapphire
Alexandrite
(changes color)
Sapphire
Aquamarine
Topaz
Tourmaline
Tanzanite
Spinel
Zircon
Lapis Lazuli
Iolite
Turquoise
Amethyst
Garnet
Sapphire
Spinel
Tanzanite
Jadeite
Ametrine
Opal
Multicoloured
Tourmaline

The Mohs Scale of Hardness

The Moh's scale was devised in 1812 by Austrian mineralogist, Friedrich Moh, to measure a mineral's hardness and it's resistance to scratching. The scale goes from talc as number 1, being the softest, to diamonds as number 10, being the hardest substance known.


BIRTHSTONES

January Garnet
February Amethyst
March Aquamarine
April Diamond or White Topaz
May Emerald
June Pearl or Alexandrite or Moonstone
July Ruby
August Peridot
September Sapphire
October Opal or Pink Tourmaline
November Citrine
December Blue Topaz

SIGN STONE

Aries (March 22 - April 20) Diamond
Taurus (April 21 - May 21) Emerald
Gemini (May 22 - June 21) Agate
Cancer (June 22 - July 22) Pearl or Moonstone
Leo (July 23 - August 22) Ruby
Virgo (August - September 22) Sapphire
Libra (September 23 - October 23) Opal
Scorpio (October 24 - November 21) Sardonyx
Sagittarius (November 22 - December 21) Topaz
Capricorn (December 22 - January 21) Onyx
Aquarius (January 21 - February 21) Turquoise
Pisces (February 22 - March 21) Moonstone

ANNIVERSARY STONES

1st: Gold 13th: Citrine
2nd: Garnet 14th: Opal
3rd: Pearl 15th: Ruby
4th: Blue Topaz 20th: Emerald
5th: Sapphire 25th: Silver
6th: Amethyst 30th: Pearl
7th: Onyx 35th: Emerald
8th: Tourmaline 40th: Ruby
9th: Lapis 45th: Sapphire
10th: Diamond 50th: Gold
11th: Turquoise 60th: Diamond
12th: Jade  

Gems information by name: -

Amethyst (Quartz)

  •  Hardness : 7.0.

  •  Occurrence : Worldwide.

  •  Appearance
    Violet, lilac or mauve quartz is called amethyst. Amethyst is sometimes heat treated to form citrine. Amethyst crystals can form together with citrine crystals to form bi-colored quartz called ametrine. Amethyst is the birthstone of the month of February.

  •  Enhancements
    Occasionally heated to lighten color and/or to remove "smoky" components.

Ametrine (Quartz)

  •  Hardness : 7.0.

  •  Occurrence : Bolivia, Brazil. Several suppliers have indicated that the ametrine mines have run out. Quality material is now very difficult to obtain.

  •  Appearance
    Quartz crystals that are part amethyst, and part citrine are called ametrine. Ametrine is found naturally, and is not the result of heat treatment or any other enhancement. Bi-colored quartz is similar, but is a combination of citrine and smoky quartz, or amethyst and colorless quartz.

  •  Enhancements
    Ametrine is not enhanced.

Apatite

  •  Hardness : 5.0.

  •  Occurrence : Brazil, Russia, Myanmar (Burma), Sri Lanka (Ceylon), Canada, East Africa, Sweden, Spain and Mexico.

  •  Appearance
    Can be transparent to opaque, with colors ranging from yellow, green, blue, violet and colorless.

  •  Enhancements
    Apatite is not known to be enhanced.

Bi-Color Quartz

  •  Hardness : 7.0.

  •  Appearance
    Quartz cystals of different colors often form together to form interesting bi-colored stones. These can be part natural citrine and smoky quartz, or amethyst and colorless quartz, these gemstones are very attractive. Another form of bi-colored quartz is ametrine (amethyst and citrine).

  •  Enhancements
    Bi-color quartz is not known to be enhanced.


Black Spinel

  •  Hardness : 8.0.

  •  Occurrence : Myanmar (Burma), Sri Lanka (Ceylon), Africa.

  •  Appearance
    Black spinel is the opaque jet-black variety of spinel. Black spinel is the premier black gemstone. With a hardness of 8, it's extremely durable. Black spinel lacks the metallic lustre of hematite or black diamond, other popular black gemstones. Black spinel is a true gemstone, unlike jet, which is form of coal (coal). Black spinel would make an attractive center stone when surrounded by diamonds or white sapphires. Black spinel is often confused with black tourmaline, another great material for use in making jewelry with black gemstones.

  •  Enhancements
    Black spinel is not enhanced.

Blue Sapphire

  •  Hardness : 9.0.

  •  Occurrence : Myanmar (Burma), Thailand, India, Sri Lanka (Ceylon), Tanzania, Afghanistan, Australia, Brazil, Cambodia, Malagasy Republic, Malawi, Pakistan, Zimbabwe (Rhodesia), United States (Montana, North Carolina).

  •  Appearance
    Although found in a variety of colors, blue sapphire is the color most people think of when sapphire is mentioned. Very light to very dark (almost inky) shades of blue are found. The more vivid colors (without being too dark) are the most valuable.

  •  Enhancements
    Blue sapphire is always heat treated to produce, intensify or lighten color and/or improve color uniformity and appearance.

Blue Topaz

  •  Hardness : 8.0.

  •  Occurrence : Brazil, U.S., Sri Lanka (Ceylon), Myanmar (Burma), former USSR, Australia, Pakistan, Mexico, Tasmania, Japan, Africa. Topaz and citrine are the birthstones of the month of November. Some blue topaz are indistinguishable from aquamarine with the naked eye. Most blue topaz is irradiated and heat treated silver topaz, although it is sometimes found naturally.

  •  Appearance
    The names "Sky blue topaz", "Swiss blue topaz", "London blue topaz" are trade names which refer to the darkness of the gemstone, with "sky blue topaz" being the lightest and "London blue topaz" being the darkest.

  •  Enhancements
    Blue topaz is usually irradiated and often heated to produce blue color.

Carnelian

  •  Hardness : 6.5 - 7.0.

  •  Occurrence : Worldwide. A member of the chalcedony family (micro-crystalline quartz).

  •  Appearance
    Cornelian, also spelled Carnelian ranges in color from light brownish-red to deep transparent red. The color is due to Iron.

  •  Enhancements
    Carnelian is usually heat treated to produce color, and occasionally dyed to produce color.

Chrysoprase

  •  Hardness : 6.5 - 7.0.

  •  Occurrence : Australia, Brazil, Western U.S., Utal mountains (Russia), and Austria.

  •  Appearance
    The most valued of the chalcedony, this translucent bluish green stone derives it's color from the presence of Nickel.

  •  Enhancements
    Chrysoprase is not enhanced.

Citrine (Quartz)

  •  Hardness : 7.0.

  •  Occurrence : Worldwide

  •  Appearance
    Yellow or golden yellow quartz is called citrine. Citrine crystals can form together with amethyst or smoky quartz to form ametrine and bi-colored quartz. Citrine and topaz are the birthstones of the month of November.

  •  Enhancements
    Citrine is usually produced by heating various types of quartz.

Emerald (Beryl)

  •  Hardness : 7.5 - 8.0.

  •  Occurrence : Colombia, Brazil, Zimbabwe (Rhodesia), South Africa, Ural mountains (Russia), Zambia, India, Tanzania, Pakistan, Australia, U.S. (Connecticut, Maine, North Carolina), Austria and Norway.

  •  Appearance
    Emerald refers to the green variety of beryl. There are however, gem quality green beryls which are not emeralds. All emeralds contain inclusions, which are evidence as to the genuineness of the stone. The name is derived from the Greek word Smaragdos, meaning "green stone". Emerald is the birthstone of the month of May.

  •  Enhancements
    Emerald is usually treated with colorless oil, wax, or natural and synthetic resins into voids to improve appearance. Surface cavities of emerald is commonly filled with a hardened colorless substance. Emerald is also occasionally dyed with dye or colored oil.

Garnet

  •  Hardness : 7.0 - 7.5.

  •  Occurrence : U.S. (Arizona), South Africa, Argentina, Australia, Brazil, Myanmar (Burma), Scotland, Switzerland, Tanzania

  •  Appearance
    Garnet is the name which can be applied to six similar mineral species, namely almandine, pyrope, spessartine, grossular, andradite and uvarovite. To further complicate matters, many garnets are actually a combination of these minerals. Rhodolite garnet for instance, is a combination of almandine and pyrope, and is sometimes referred to as pyrope-almandine garnet. There are also many trade names and other commonly used names which only adds to the confusion, such as Rhodolite, Tsavorite, Hessonite, Malaya, Mozambique, Mandarin, Ant-hill, Leuco, Hydrogrossular, Demantoid, Melanite, Topazolite, Thai. Other names such as "cape ruby" are simply misleading and deceptive. Some garnets also exhibit color change and stars.

  •  Enhancements
    Garnet in general is not enhanced.

Gold Included Quartz

  •  Hardness : 7.0.

  •  Occurrence : Worldwide, found in gold deposits.

  •  Appearance
     Metallic gold, included in white milky quartz.

  •  Enhancements
     Gold included quartz is not enhanced.

Grossular Garnet

  •  Hardness : 7.0 - 7.5.

  •  Occurrence : Sri Lanka, Canada, Pakistan, South Africa, Tanzania, Russia and the U.S.. This is a fairly rare garnet.

  •  Appearance
    Cinnamon orange (hessonite), pink and emerald green (tsavorite garnet).

  •  Enhancements
    Grossular garnet is not enhanced.

Mexican Fire Opal

  •  Hardness : 5.5 - 6.5.

  •  Occurrence : Australia, former Czechoslovakia, U.S., Brazil, Mexico and southern Africa. Opal and tourmaline are the birthstones of the month of October.

  •  Appearance
    Orangish yellow to dark red. The reddish fire opal is sometimes called "cherry opal".

  •  Enhancements
    Mexican fire opal is not enhanced.

Peridot

  •  Hardness : 6.5 - 7.0.

  •  Occurrence : St. John's Island, Zebirget Island, Red Sea (Egypt), Norway, Eifel, Germany, San Carlos (Arizona), Hawaii, Myanmar (Burma), and Italy.

  •  Appearance
    Olive green to yellowish green. The darker green is known as peridot, the yellower type chrysolite. Peridot and sardonyx are the birthstones of the month of August.

  •  Enhancements
     Peridot is rarely treated with colorless oil, wax, natural and synthetic unhardened resins into voids to improve appearance. Surface fractures are rarely filled  with a colorless hardened substance.

Peruvian Blue Opal

  •  Hardness : 5.5 - 6.5.

  •  Occurrence : Peru

  •  Appearance
    Translucent, and similar in color to turquoise in color.

  •  Enhancements
    Peruvian blue opal is not enhanced.

Pink Sapphire

  •  Hardness : 9.0.

  •  Occurrence : Myanmar (Burma), Thailand, India, Sri Lanka (Ceylon), Tanzania, Afghanistan, Australia, Brazil, Cambodia, Malagasy Republic, Malawi, Pakistan, Zimbabwe (Rhodesia), United States (Montana, North Carolina).

  •  Appearance
    Lighter in color than ruby, these gemstones are referred to as pink sapphire. The term ruby refers to the darker red corundum colored by Chromium impurities.

  •  Enhancements
    Pink sapphire is always heat treated to produce, intensify or lighten color and/or improve color uniformity and appearance.

Pink Tourmaline

  •  Hardness : 7.0.

  •  Occurrence : Madagascar, North America, Brazil, Myanmar (Burma), Africa, Siberia, Australia, Sri Lanka (Ceylon). Tourmaline and opal are the birthstones of the month of October. Tourmaline is the national gemstone of the United States.

  •  Appearance
     Pink to reddish in color.

  •  Enhancements
     Pink, red and purple tourmaline is occasionally heat treated to improve color.

Quartz

  •  Hardness : 7.0

  •  Occurrence : Worldwide. One of the most common minerals.

  •  Appearance
    Quartz can be found in a variety of colors, violet (amethyst), golden yellow (citrine), pink or peachish (rose quartz), brown (smoky quartz), green (prasiolite) and colorless (rock crystal). Quartz is sometimes found with inclusions of other minerals such as rutile (sagenite, or rutilated quartz) or tourmaline (tourmalinated quartz), making them look quite remarkable. Chalcedony, a micro-crystalline member of the quartz family consists of a number of stones, namely agate, dendritic agate, fire agate, bloodstone (heliotrope), plasma, chrysoprase, prase, fossilized wood, jasper, carnelian, moss agate, onyx, sardonyx, and sard

  •  Enhancements
    Clear quartz is not enhanced. Refer to specific pages on other types.

Rhodolite Garnet

  •  Hardness : 7.0 - 7.5.

  •  Occurrence : U.S., Zimbabwe, and Sri Lanka (Ceylon).

  •  Appearance
    Rhodolite garnet is a combination of almandine and pyrope, and is sometimes referred to as pyrope-almandine garnet. The name is derived from the Greek words rhodon and lithos, meaning rose-stone. Raspberry red to a deep pinkish-red. Garnet is the birthstone of the month of January.

  •  Enhancements
    Rhodolite garnet is not enhanced.

Pink Amethyst

  •  Hardness : 7.0.

  •  Occurrence : Worldwide

  •  Appearance
    Also known as lavender amethyst, and is much lighter in color than amethyst.

  •  Enhancements
    Occasionally heated to lighten color and/or to remove "smoky" components.

Rose Quartz

  •  Hardness : 7.0

  •  Occurrence : Madagascar, Brazil, U.S. (Colorado), former USSR, Scotland and Spain.

  •  Appearance
    The soft pink variety of quartz, generally cloudy, or milky in appearance due to minute inclusions of foreign substances. It's somewhat more rare than other varieties of quartz.

  •  Enhancements
    Rose quartz is not enhanced.

Rubellite (Tourmaline)

  •  Hardness : 7.0

  •  Occurrence : Madagascar, North America, Brazil, Myanmar (Burma), Africa, Siberia, Australia, Sri Lanka (Ceylon). Tourmaline and opal are the birthstones of the month of October. Tourmaline is the national gemstone of the United States.

  •  Appearance
    The reddish to purple color of tourmaline is called rubellite. Like emerald, inclusions are common. Ruby red colored stones are the most valuable.

  •  Enhancements
    Pink, red and purple tourmaline is occasionally heat treated to improve color.

Ruby (Corundum)

  •  Hardness : 9.0.

  •  Occurrence : Myanmar (Burma), Thailand, India, Sri Lanka (Ceylon), Tanzania, Afghanistan, Australia, Brazil, Cambodia, Malagasy Republic, Malawi, Pakistan, Zimbabwe (Rhodesia), United States (Montana, North Carolina).

  •  Appearance
     Named for it's color (Latin Rubeus). Ruby has been confused with red spinel and garnet. The color can range from "pigeon-blood" to brownish. Other colors are known as sapphire. Inclusions are common, and are used to tell the difference between a synthetic and natural stone. Ruby is the birthstone of the month of July.

  •  Enhancements
     Ruby is usually heat treated to improve color and appearance. Surface cavities and fractures are commonly filled with a foreign material, including glass. As a  by-product of heat treatment, the presence of solidified borax or similar colorless substances which are visible under 10x magnification are common.

Rutilated Quartz

  •  Hardness : 7.0

  •  Occurrence : Worldwide.

  •  Appearance
    Sometimes called "sagenite", quartz crystals which are included with "needle like" rutile crystals are common and are quite attractive. Other common attractive inclusions found are tourmaline, gold, silver, pyrite and goethite.

  •  Enhancements
    Rutilated quartz is not enhanced.

Sapphire (Corundum)

  •  Hardness : 9.0

  •  Occurrence : Myanmar (Burma), Thailand, India, Sri Lanka (Ceylon), Tanzania, Afghanistan, Australia, Brazil, Cambodia, Malagasy Republic, Malawi, Pakistan, Zimbabwe (Rhodesia), United States (Montana, North Carolina).

  •  Appearance
    Sapphires are found in a variety of colors. The reddish colors are called ruby. People generally think of sapphires as blue in color, although they are also colorless, pink, orange, green, golden, yellow, purple and black. Sapphire is the birthstone of the month of September. Red sapphires are known as ruby, and pinkish orange sapphire as padparadscha.

  •  Enhancements
    Sapphire is always heat treated to produce, intensify or lighten color and/or improve color uniformity and appearance. Heat treatment of sapphires is performed at the sapphire mines, and is a industry-wide accepted practice. We have had a lot of requests for untreated sapphires, but they don't exist. Unless you dig it out of the ground yourself, always assume that any sapphire is heat treated.

Smoky Quartz

  •  Hardness : 7.0.

  •  Occurrence : Brazil, Madagascar, Switzerland, U.S. (Colorado), Australia and Spain. Smoky quartz from the Cairngorm Mountains of Scotland is called cairngorm.

  •  Appearance
    Smoky quartz is the dark brown variety of quartz. In the past, these were often sold as "smoky topaz". There is no such gemstone known as smoky topaz and it's illegal to refer to quartz as "topaz". Watch out for some unscrupulous dealers who sell "smoky topaz", it is probably quartz. Citrine was often passed off as topaz as well. Smoky quartz crystals can form together with citrine crystals to form bi-colored quartz. Smoky quartz is sometimes found rutilated, which would be called Smoky Sagenite (Rutilated Quartz).

  •  Enhancements
    Smoky quartz is occasionally produced by irradiation of colorless quartz.

Tourmaline

  •  Hardness : 7.0

  •  Occurrence : Madagascar, North America, Brazil, Myanmar (Burma), Africa, Siberia, Australia, Sri Lanka (Ceylon). Tourmaline and opal are the birthstones of the month of October. Tourmaline is the national gemstone of the United States.

  •  Appearance
    There are more colors of tourmaline than any other known gemstone. The lighter colored stones are more valuable.

  •  Enhancements
    Refer to specific pages

Turquoise

  •  Hardness : 7.0.

  •  Occurrence : Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Eastern Australia, Tibet, Israel, Tanzania, Southwestern U.S.. Turquoise and zircon are the birthstones of the month of December.

  •  Appearance
    Sky blue to bluish green. The name means "Turkish stone". Turquoise is porous, so contact with liquids, oils or even perspiration should be avoided. Jewelry made with turquoise should be removed before washing hands, etc.. The pure blue color is rare, most stones contain the matrix from which it was found. Although the stones without matrix are rarer and more valuable, many people find the black matrix attractive, and makes the stone unique.

  •  Enhancements
    Turquoise is commonly impregnated with plastic, colorless oil or wax to improve color and increase durability. Untreated turquoise will eventually turn green.

Yellow Sapphire

  •  Hardness : 9.0.

  •  Occurrence : Myanmar (Burma), Thailand, India, Sri Lanka (Ceylon), Tanzania, Afghanistan, Australia, Brazil, Cambodia, Malagasy Republic, Malawi, Pakistan, Zimbabwe (Rhodesia), United States (Montana, North Carolina).

  •  Appearance
     Lacking orangish tones, these lemon yellow sapphires are really quite stunning. Can be confused with citrine.

  •  Enhancements
     Yellow sapphire is always heat treated to produce, intensify or lighten color and/or improve color uniformity and appearance. Yellow sapphire is occasionally irradiated to provide temporary intense yellow or orange color.

Quartz

  •  Hardness : 7.0

  •  Occurrence : Worldwide. One of the most common minerals.

  •  Appearance
    Quartz can be found in a variety of colors, violet (amethyst), golden yellow (citrine), pink or peachish (rose quartz), brown (smoky quartz), green (prasiolite) and colorless (rock crystal). Quartz is sometimes found with inclusions of other minerals such as rutile (sagenite, or rutilated quartz) or tourmaline (tourmalinated quartz), making them look quite remarkable. Chalcedony, a micro-crystalline member of the quartz family consists of a number of stones, namely agate, dendritic agate, fire agate, bloodstone (heliotrope), plasma, chrysoprase, prase, fossilized wood, jasper, carnelian, moss agate, onyx, sardonyx, and sard

  •  Enhancements
    Clear quartz is not enhanced. Refer to specific pages on other types.

Onyx

  •  Hardness : 6.5 - 7.0.

  •  Occurrence : Worldwide. A member of the family (micro-crystalline)

  •  Appearance
    Onyx is the name given to hich is uniform in color, generally black or white. Onyx should not be confused with onyx marble, a banded stone which is a form of limestone

  •  Enhancements
    Black and colored onyx is always dyed.

Lemon Quartz

  •  Hardness : 7.0.

  •  Occurrence : Brazil

  •  Appearance
    Yellow green in color,

  •  Enhancements
    Lmeon is usually produced by heating various types of Quartz

Iolite

  •  Hardness : 7.0 - 7.5.

  •  Occurrence : Named after P. Cordier, a French geologist. Cordierite is also known as iolite and dichroite. Other common names are water sapphire and Vikings' compass, named so because of it's ability to determine the direction of the sun on overcast days. Cordierite is found in Germany, Brazil, Norway, Finland and Madagascar.

  •  Appearance
    Has strong pleochroism, meaning the gemstone changes colors depending which angle it is viewed from. Cordierite displays colors ranging from deep blue, to violet and light blue and grayish blue.

  •  Enhancements
    Iolite is not enhanced.

Labradorite

  •  Hardness : 6.0.

  •  Occurrence : Labrador (Canada), Finland, Norway, former USSR

  •  Appearance
    Can be red, orange, yellow, colorless, with a bluish play of color, "schiller". Spectrolite is the name for the Finnish labradorite.
  •  Enhancements
    Labradorite is not known to be enhanced.
 
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